Degree of Difficulty

5 Pointe Shoes = Call a professional

1 Pointe Shoe = Home handy man easy job

PRODUCT ASSEMBLY FOR

REINFORCING WALLS

STM Studio Supplies by Professionals for Professionals

Unit 1, 329 High Street Chatswood NSW 2067 T: 02 9417 3000 F: 02 9417 3111 E: sales@stmstudiosupplies.com

Thank you for investing in our beautiful barres and brackets. Due to the organic nature of the timber, there can occasionally be a natural curvature to the barre. If this is the case, simply lay the barre on the brackets or stanchions with bows facing up and screw the fixings in sequence from one end to the other. This will forcibly coax the curve down and out of the barre before fixing the next end.

Reinforcement is of particular importance for Pilates barres as the brackets have 6 fixing points which makes them too wide to completely attach to the studs.

Reinforcement Gyprock / Stud Wall

When reinforcing a gyprock wall we glue and screw full sheets of 25mm plywood running all the way to the floor, fixing into studs where possible with #8 x 60mm screws.

Plywood is superior to MDF as the cross laminates give it more integrity in terms of gripping the screw. This board spreads the load from the fixing points, with the glue doing most of the work and the screws primarily there to hold the boards in place while the glue goes off. If the wall has a bow on it this can be addressed by picking out the plywood so you get a straight line for your finished barre. We then face the plywood, if it is going to be painted, with 3mm-4.5mm MDF, also glued but nailed with small nails rather than screws. The MDF gives a paint-ready finish as different from the generally slightly textured plywood. To avoid ugly sheet joins we make a V groove in the MDF in line with each barre position and use these as a sheet joining point. This can then be painted and finished with an aluminium angle at the top, typically 30x 30 x 1.6mm.

An even better result can be achieved by applying a covering of Quietspace in place of the MDF.

Applied with contact glue, this product has superior cleaning qualities, and adds a decorative colour opportunity whilst enhancing the acoustics of the room.

Noggins: Reinforcement will need to be installed at the points where the brackets are to be placed. This should consist of two 200mm x 50mm timber noggins fixed between the wall studs for each bracket. See the opposite.

Ply Sheet: An alternative to this method is to glue and fix full sheets of 25mm ply along the length of the wall where the barre is to be placed (to 1220mm high), with the bottom of the sheets resting on the skirting. This will spread the load down into the floor. Over this, we typically fix 3mm MDF with the joins matching the bracket centres to make it more paint receptive. The MDF is then painted to match, or in contrast to, the existing wall or covered with fabric. In each instance, the best finish is to cap it with clear anodised aluminium trim angle.

Alternatively, for an easy, clean and practical finish we use Quietspace acoustic fabric. These are unaffected by the inevitable scuff marks from errant kicks, lessening the need for subsequent refinishing and are doubly useful by adding a splash of colour and enhancing the acoustics of your studio in the process.

Reinforcement Besser Brick

Besser brick is a very fragile medium and we recommend you fix 25mm ply to the wall, using glue and blue point concrete anchors before fixing the brackets. We will supply blue point concrete anchors for your brackets. You will need to drill pilot holes before fixing them.

Reduce reverberated noise and add a vibrant feature to your environment with QuietSpace Acoustic Fabric. An acoustic and decorative wall fabric, Acoustic Fabric is the simple choice for managing echo and creating a durable interior solution. Available in a range of over 25 classic colours with a hook-and-loop receptive surface, Acoustic Fabric provides the freedom to create a unique look in any space.

Transform your walls into acoustic notice boards by taking advantage of Acoustic Fabric’s pinnable and hook-and-loop receptive surface. Made from 100% polyester fibre; Acoustic Fabric contains a minimum of 60% recycled content it is also moisture resistant so that it won’t stain, rot or break down making Acoustic Fabric the safe, non-toxic, long-lasting and sustainable acoustic wall treatment.

Reinforcement Mirror Walls

These need to be strongly reinforced as a failure in the fixing will be catastrophic.

  • Remove the gyprock (Drywall) from the area to be addressed.

  • Mark out your bracket positions and heights and introduce 45mm x 200mm timber into the appropriate spaces.

  •  Centre your noggin in the centre hole of the bracket. This will range from 1 metre finished barre height up or down to suit your needs.

  • For a 1 metre, high barre this centre will be 900mm

  • Finished barre heights of a metre suit most situations including Pilates Theraband techniques such as Barre Attack, Xtend and Total barre.

  • For RAD, (Royal Academy of Dancing) two heights of approximately 102cm and 115 cm are recommended but not essential.

  • If the event of a metal furring these noggins can be screw fixed in from either side.

  • When it is a timber stud, screw nails may be required preferably from a Paslode or equivalent nail gun.

Retro Fit Mirror Walls

  • Bring the noggins out proud of the stud by the amount of the plasterboard or insert plywood or MDF packer of equivalent thickness.

  • Check your standoffs are common by installing a bracket at either end and running a string line.

  • Tied to the outside holes in the receivers these should line up along the length of the string in the subsequent brackets.

  • Make corrections as required

  • Install the brackets by first drilling a leader hole of 5-6.5mm and then screwing in the 10 x 50mm coach screws with a washer. This process can be improved by first lubricating coach bolts with soap.

  • These screws are best installed using a rattle gun with a 16mmm or 1/2-inch socket.

  •  Now install mirror glass – this is best done by professional installers.

  • Ensure that adequate silicon is applied to cover the entire surface area when pressed flat.

  • Not just a “she’ll be right” big squiggle.

  • Your room is going to have more robust activity than a domestic environment so please ensure that commercial quality installation procedures are being met.

  • Cap all sides with 25 x 1.6 clear anodised angle, screw fixing the top piece into MDF panel to act as a restraint with #8 x 25mm screws.

  • Vertical trim may be adhered with silicone or double-sided tape or both.

  • Where an aluminium skirting fascia is used, this should be fixed with adhesive and screws.

  • Ideally, this will be proud of the supporting timber by 2-3mm.

  • Finally, install timber barre to bracket receivers using #8 x 25mm screws enabled by a 3mm or 1/8th” pilot hole or as appropriate.

  • Add 90 x25mm skirting taking extraordinary care that this is truly level.

  • The intention here is to subsequently add a 100mm aluminium skirting fascia.

  • Where this is not available, such as in New Zealand, a square edge profile which matches other skirting may be employed along with a 25-mm trim angle.

  • This will match subsequent perimeter trim and act as a restraint for the glass when screwed into the top of the skirting board.

  • Alternatively run MDF panels to floor, or in the event of a sprung floor 10mm clear of it, and add a 6-9mm panel perfectly level for mirror glass to rest on.

  • If not already done so 16mm Mdf Panels may now be installed with cut-outs exceeding the footplate of the bracket by 10mm all around.

  • Take extra care that the first board is true and plumb and the rest will line up more easily

  • Throughout the procedure repeatedly check with a large level or straight edge that the panels are flat and even.

  • Mark vertical lines and apply matt or low sheen black paint in what will be the 10mm negative detail between the 6mm mirror panels.

  • Reset string line on original brackets and working from one side to the other.

CHECKLIST

CHECKLIST

  1. ​Unwrap your goods and check that you have received all parts.

  2. Establish the required height, all measurements quoted are to the top of the timber barre

  3. For Ballet / Dance Barres, The RAD, (Royal Academy of Dance) specifies heights of 102cm and/or 115cm, you will find that other dance societies and training organisations will have differing opinions, correct positioning for individuals is slightly above waist height with the hand positioned slightly forward and to the side of the body. To assess personal height, have your dancer place their arms in a low 2nd position and measure from there. The hand should rest lightly on the barre as if partnering, no gripping

  4. For Pilates Barres Booty Barre: 915cm, Xtend Barre: 990, For other styles please refer to your head office

  5. Carefully measure and mark the height required to measure up from the floor at your left and right bracket positions and run a string line between.

  6. As the floor, will not be perfectly level, use a spirit or laser level on the line of your barre before you finalise your position.

  7. Refer to the layout provided and mark your bracket spacing accordingly

  8. Carefully mark and drill the screw holes, first drilling a leader hole of 5-6.5mm and then screwing in the 10 x 50mm coach screws with the washers. This process can be improved by first lubricating coach bolts with soap.

  9. . Screw all of the brackets loosely to the wall checking the level as you go

  10. . If joiners required, connect the joiners by simply screwing the two pieces together

  11. . Align the predrilled holes in the barre to the holes in the brackets and loosely tighten

  12. Check the level with a spirit or laser level, tighten all screws, checking the level as you go

  13. Finally, install timber barre to bracket receivers using #8 x 25mm screws enabled by a 3mm or 1/8th” pilot hole with 250-300mm cantilever at each end or as appropriate.

TAKING CARE OF YOUR BARRE

Maintenance - once properly installed, the wall-mounted barre system needs little maintenance. However, it is advisable to check after one month of use that your fixings are coping with the wear and tear they have received and are going to receive. They might need some tightening on the wall fixings and barre to bracket fixings. If this is extreme, you might need to reassess whether the fixings used are adequate. You should repeat this check at three-monthly intervals.

Cleaning - is a straightforward matter and is subject to the amount of use the barre is receiving. Having said that, a regular weekly schedule is better than a major assault when dirt has accumulated to the point of being visible or the barre has become sticky. A light wipe with a low strength mild detergent and a soft damp cloth is recommended. It is undesirable to saturate the barre.

Also recommended is the addition of a few drops of disinfectant or Eucalyptus oil. This is particularly the case during winter when colds and sniffles can literally be handed on via the barre. You may consider at this time adding an anti-bacterial wipe, readily available from us, to your cleaning regime, don’t use alcohol-based wipes

Scratches - the greatest source of damage to your barre will be rings. If you think you are getting an undue amount of scratching you may have to try and identify the culprit, and politely request they remove the offending jewellery or otherwise wear a glove. White cotton gloves are very cheap and will solve the problem simply and perhaps avoid a major struggle removing a stubborn ring.

Recoating - There is nothing to prevent you recoating your timber barre down the track. A light sanding with 120-220 grit papers or finer, will give the following coat of clear acrylic a good “tooth” or grip. There is generally no need to try to sand out the scratches, as they will substantially disappear with the fresh paint. Cabot’s Clear Floor, and the furniture grade equivalent, is a good hard-wearing product that is readily available. We do suggest that you do a small test piece before embarking on a wholesale renovation. Alternatively, your barre may have been coated with Danish Oil, in which case the same procedures will apply.

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